I just remembered, the PS1 emulations already use the analog stick for L2 and R2. Up is both, left is L2 and right is R2. But if I make my own buttons and use the mentioned plugin, I can assign L2 to L and Volume Up and R2 to R and Volume Up to avoid mixing any possible ingame button presses as no PS1 game has Volume Up. That would free up the analog stick to actually be used for analog movement. Or just digital movement as I would probably have to fake the right analog stick for the individual games to recognize an analog controller is plugged in to the PS1, and I don't know how to do that.

Or, I could assign L2 to analog left, R2 to analog right, and then assign analog up to dpad up, a-right to d-right, etc... I think this would be simpler than the above idea.


I am making progress with my dual nub mod. I have just successfully moved the power plug to the opposite side of the psp, freeing more space for the analog to be placed more centered than if I left the power there. I do plan on plugging the original hole for it.

Unless I can think of some other use for it like a port for adding PS2 controller support at a later date or putting a switch there to control switching between additional internal memsticks - if I utulize the UMD drive space for additional memsticks. I could also just put said switch in the bay rather than externally where it could be accidentally hit and thus possibly corrupting my data...

Anyways, here's pics of the progress


{{{edit: I have since blackened out the yellow of the plug as well as the edges so you don't see the cut I made. Looks a lot cleaner}}}

It was tough to make it as tight of a fit as it is but sooo worth the last hour's work. Even without the hotglue, this thing is pretty snug plugging in the cord and removing it. It wiggles a bit but not after I secure it. Then I still have to extend the wire so it can plug into the board at some point.

{{{edit: I have added some shims that hold it in place so tight, I have to struggle to remove them! Now just a dab of glue and this will be set. I will save on doing the glue til the end

}}}


Edit moar plox!
So I just ordered a few smaller solder tips, tweezers, 3 additional MemStick slots, eyewear, and a second wifi antenna. I plan on adding all the memstick slots and wifi antenna to the vacant umd bay.

That's looking really hot, man. Keep the pics coming.

While waiting for packages from 8 different online stores, I have been thinking about what else I can do...
Getting ambitious!


gonna add the three memstick slots where the memsticks are. The switch for it is TINY and will fit just above them. The post-it note represents the speakers I am adding. They are thin enough for sure. They will still turn off when I plug in headphones.


This is where the memstick used to go. I am considering putting a female ipod jack there and hooking a male end to a PS2 controller (or 360 so the stick is more comfortably placed) so I have controller out. There are ipod extension cables on ebay that are five dollars after shipping. One of my best friends works at the apple store and might be able to snag me one for free.

You wil undoubtably have the most pimped out, sheer awesome, PSP ever to exsist. The Go can only wish to be as awesome as this (or even whatever Sony's next handheld is.)

Its just a shame I can't raid the memsticks or some micro sd cards...
I even took apart (ruined) my fourth and now trashed CR-5400 just to see how it works. I still don't know!

Well everything has arrived and progress is progressing.

I do plan on getting a higher quality solder iron before doing the intricate points, but in the time until then, I decided to move forward with what I can.

So I just connected the power on the usb to the power plug on the mobo. Now, I can charge/power on the psp in case my battery is dead and I don't have a power cable.



Sorry for the picture quality. My camera is charging, so I used my 3MP phone.


I am also adjusting everything and shaving everything down to make room for the dual nub. In fact I have to shave down the nub itself to make room. I have gouged a huge scary looking hole in the faceplate that I am trashing for placement testing. Once I figure out exactly where I want it I will do it right on the proper case.


Here's where the switch will go to control the memory stick slots that are going in the umd bay. Its a six position dip switch that is perfectly flush with the psp. The switches are in enough that to flip them, you need to use your finger nail or a pen. I might attach a small switch-using-tool to the lanyard to manage it.


And this shows that I managed to get the door to open wide, while at the same time, no further and without freely opening. I will add some sort of brace to stop it from opening beyond this point and breaking the hinge. Opening it this far is necessary to get to the memsticks and speakers.



Again, any silver casing is for testing and doesn't need to be pretty, while the blue will likely be the finished product.

This is already epic as hell. Too bad you only have one try before the real thing with the new nub hole. And I can see how that would need to be as perfect as you can get it. If you were rotating the nub and it isn't perfectly round, it'll catch on something. But I'm not sure how much that'll matter seeing as it's not true analog. It's just about equal with a d-pad since it's just a mapping of the face buttons... and at best can have 8 directions. I don't know if the PSP buttons are pressure sensitive, but that would help.

Anyways, this is freaking awesome. Best of luck.

The psp is completely digital. No pressure sensitivity on any of the buttons. In fact the dpad, face buttons, and shoulder buttons on the slim aren't even on a board. They are on a sticker that is placed on the case with a ribbon connector coming out of it. I was nervous as hell peeling it off the old case!

The hole for the nub has to go slightly closer to the screen still. It will be perfectly round as I will be using a drill bit that I can't remember the name for... It's the one that is for punching holes, with a circle of teeth as if on the rim of a cup, hollow in the center, and the cup would attach to the drill at its bottom.

It could be a tiny bit larger than needed since the nub itself keeps the stick perfectly round in movement. If I can manage to find a bit that is the exact size, I won't have to smooth it out myself and end up with an ugly ellipse.

The dual nub will have eight directions better than the d-pad since it allows contact with a single face button and one of its adjacent buttons at the same time when you press on a diagonal.

Lots of progress today.

I removed the memory stick slot and soldered about a foot of wire (way too much on purpose) to each of the connection points for it. I will test them soon and then test the switch. If it all works out, I will put a bit of hot glue over the points and clean it up and place the wire as out of the way as I can.

I also soldered the speaker wire to run to the umd bay where my new speakers have just been placed. I haven't attached the wire to the speakers yet as I am still needing to remove and disassemble the unit for the foreseeable future.

The speakers them selves are mounted on a brace that hinges in the center of the umd bay door. This way, when the door is closed, the speakers at facing out at the bottom of the bay; when the door is open, the speakers hinge up to the top, snap in place and now face the front.

I am still working out how to mount the memory sticks. I want them to mount to the inside of the umd bay to the psp casing. When the door is opened, it should be able to hinge back a little not unlike the umd would. This way, I can have them as far towards the top of the bay, clear of the speakers. The hinging is needed to get them past the top of the inside of the bay, allowing the memory sticks to be switched out. Just need to find a good thin metal to use. I honestly am considering a soda can.

That still leaves the dual nub to work on, the ipod connector for controller input, and the second wifi antenna.

I will try to get pics up tomorrow or something. The speakers on the umd bay door are surprisingly simple and I honestly surprised myself with that one lol.

I would like to say I was wondering when this was getting an update, but tbh I had kind of forgotten about it. That tends to happen after 2 months I suppose.

Anyways, aluminum sounds like it might be too soft of a metal (or at least aluminum from a can). But I really wouldn't know what else would be a better substitute.

Regardless, this is still epic and yes... give me pics.

I am still working on this although extremely slowly. Lots of more "responsible" things to do in my time. Anyway, I just did a battery mod replacing the battery in the battery case with 3xAAA batteries.
Here's a look.

The board is under the tape.
I just super-glued the springs in place. I don't need the cover since the battery goes into the PSP open side in and the PSP battery bay cover holds it in as it normally would with an unaltered battery.


I don't get as long a charge from it as I would otherwise, but it is handy in a pinch if I don't have a way to charge my batteries. Stock batteries are 3.6v so be careful or use resistors if you think you should. You get 4.5v from this and depending on what you are doing and your settings, you get 45 minutes to 2 hours.

On course with my memory stick mod, I am going to be running the wires for the memory sticks from the UMD bay to the motherboard through the thin depth edge side of the bay. I want to be able to disassemble it if need be so I will be using a mini-hdmi male plug coming from the UMD bay to a mini-hdmi female port where the memory stick slot used to be on the mother board. The female ports I ordered arrived but the males have not. The same goes with the speakers and I have tiny two wire plugs for that. They are super tiny as you could imagine a two wire plug would be.

I finally found one solution to mounting the three memory sticks in the UMD bay that would allow me to pivot them outwards, thus saving space in the bay while still allowing access to the memory sticks in the slots. Paper clips.
I simply bend one into the shape of a capital 'I' with the top bar of the 'I' being a double bar for stability and at the length of the three memory stick slots side by side. Then the bottom bar is the hinge upon which it pivots. This keeps it from becoming too thick of a setup to close the bay and I don't have to fabricate anything special.

Thinking of trying to add in the L2 and R2 buttons, I picked up some tiny buttons for it but have yet found a place to mount them where they are accessible without cramping the hand. Probably gonna skip it entirely.

I also got in six analog nubs for the sake of I am likely to destroy more still (at three trashed so far) as I attempt to make one small enough to mount a second nub that is flush with the height of the stock nub.

The final colors will be blue case with all buttons (L, R, D-pad, analogs, select/home strip, x,o, etc.) and the trim in red. I will also be cutting into the UMD door to let the speakers be heard better when closed and installing a plugin (this plugin) that lets me boost the output of the speakers to help take advantage of the huge jump in speaker size.